The Autumn/Winter 2025 ready-to-wear season has officially (and successfully) unfolded across the fashion capitals: New York, London, Milan, and Paris, delivering with it tons of creativity, innovation, and eye-catching moments. From audacious debuts to milestone celebrations, this season has already made its mark in fashion history.
The 2025 fashion season kickstarted in New York with Marc Jacobs’ standout SS25 show: a touching tribute of sorts to courage staged at the iconic New York Public Library. This particular show drew a star-studded crowd.
Next, Calvin Klein’s new creative director, Veronica Leoni, made her highly anticipated debut, while Michael Kors and Tory Burch brought their signature elegant designs to the fashion runway. Notably absent designers for the AW25 show were Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger, but critics said this left room for fresh designs and narratives to aim for the center stage.
At the London Fashion Week, we saw Burberry, Simone Rocha, and Erdem captivate audiences with their unique visions while in Milan, Gucci marked its first collection under Sabato De Sarno and Fendi’s centennial anniversary was a display of grand style.
Presently, the spotlight is on Paris, where Sarah Burton’s Givenchy debut and the city’s foremost houses (Dior, Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Saint Laurent) promise to deliver unforgettable design novelties.
Keep reading for more detailed highlights from the AW25 season.
Acne Studios
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Acne Studios’ Fall/Winter 2025 collection was a celebration of contrasts: Nature’s serenity meeting the pulse of city life.
“Nature and urban cities have always had a relationship that fascinates me. It is the tension and contrast between the two of them that I have tried to portray within this collection,” Acne Studios’ creative director, Jonny Johansson shared, adding “A Nordic upbringing develops a deep connection to nature.”
The collection creatively reimagined suiting, with outerwear and tailored pieces which featured soft, rounded shoulders and dropped silhouettes for a relaxed but refined look. Flowing dresses were the order of the day, imitating ease and movement, while vibrant knit vests added a playful flair with oversized bow ties cascading down the front.
Johansson drew inspiration from the ’70s, reinterpreting the era’s glam rock and disco influences for contemporary wardrobes. Think fitted tops paired with loose, flowing bottoms, emphasised by whimsical heart-shaped belts. The color palette was full of rich hues of Bordeaux reds, purples, and golds with earthy tones of brown, oat, honey, and beige for a warm, nostalgic vibe.
Footwear included statement-making designs ranging from peep-toe leather heels to innovative “broken” penny loafers reimagined as boots. The collection strutted to the music rhythm of Björk’s “Human Behavior,” perfectly capturing the fusion of raw emotion and urban sophistication – exactly what Johansson was going for.
Chloé
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Chloé’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection is a love letter to the women who wear it—a celebration of their complexity, their contradictions, and their ever-evolving stories, at least that’s what designer Chemena Kamali wanted to convey.
“As I started working on this collection, I felt that moving forward is just as important as honouring the past,” Kamali had revealed, reiterating with, “It is about continuing to explore, to redefine and to evolve the Chloé woman’s state of mind. The connection between the house, the woman and myself is deeply personal.”
The show marked the return of the iconic Paddington bag, alongside a stunning array of flowing lace gowns, silky slip dresses, and luxurious faux-fur stoles. Kamali drew inspiration from the way we romanticize the past, blending fragments of tradition with contemporary sensibilities.
The designs juxtapose opulence with effortless ease, capturing the duality of the Chloé woman’s spirit. Textures from the SS25 collection ranged from lavish to pared-down silhouettes, in a celebration of the beauty of plurality and the many influences that define modern femininity.
Tom Ford
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Haider Ackermann’s first collection for Tom Ford set the fashion world abuzz, as this was a collection that was very much anticipated. Taking over from Peter Hawkings, Ackermann unveiled his Fall/Winter 2025 lineup to a rapturous audience on Wednesday evening, quipping backstage, “I hope I seduced you all.”
The collection was an artful blend of Tom Ford’s signature allure and Ackermann’s distinctive touch, featuring luxe leathers, vibrant dresses, and sleek separates that exuded both power and sensuality.
In his show notes, Ackermann poetically described the collection as a “new dance,” a metaphor for the delicate balance of honoring Ford’s legacy while infusing his own vision.
“A beginning is a new dance,” he wrote. “You start by looking at your partner, acknowledging differences, exploring similarities, and finding ways to move harmoniously. Entering the house that Mr. Tom Ford built, I was drawn to the man himself, whose essence resonates in everything he created. He is nightlife; I am the morning after. This is where our dance begins. Tom Ford is a world of desire—it lures, it seduces.”
With this collection, Ackermann not only paid homage to the past but also set the stage for an exciting future, proving that the dance between legacy and innovation is one worth watching.
Stella McCartney
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This season, Stella McCartney redefined office wear with her ‘Laptop to Lapdance’ collection, presented to a celebrity-filled audience that included model icons like Cameron Diaz and Kate Moss. To put it simply, the show was an ode to the multifaceted lives of women, mixing professionalism with playfulness, and strength with sensuality.
McCartney’s designs seamlessly transitioned from boardroom to bar, offering tailored designs with a twist. There was an array of bold textures, and unexpected details that exuded confidence and charm.
Stella McCartney’s show notes read. “This season’s Stella woman is educated, an entrepreneur, the boss. She is a mother, a sister, a lover. She fights the good fight – for women, for animals, for everyone. She does it all; enjoying every aspect of her working day whilst having fun and being herself at night. Winter 2025 brings the two together, allowing her to express herself through what she wears. A reminder that sexuality and sensuality, kindness and vulnerability are forms of strength and beauty.”
Dior
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This season, Maria Grazia Chiuri turned to Virginia Woolf’s groundbreaking 1928 novel ‘Orlando’ for inspiration, curating a Dior collection that reimagined historical classiness through a modern lens. The show celebrated what Chiuri describes as “a distant era that defies time and genres,” breathing new life into iconic elements like the ruff, tailcoats, and intricate corsetry.
The lineup featured sheer, ruffled dresses, lace bloomers, knee-high socks, and layered shirting that exuded both romance and rebellion. Alongside these historical nods, Chiuri paid homage to Dior’s rich legacy, reviving John Galliano’s iconic ‘J’adore Dior’ tees and incorporating crisp white shirts reminiscent of Gianfranco Ferré’s tenure at the house. The timeless Bar Jacket also made its signature appearance, seamlessly bridging the past and present.
By incorporating the house’s archives, Chiuri managed to successfully merge tradition with modernity, creating a collection that embodies the innovative spirit.
