Months after being engulfed in a firestorm over cultural appropriation, the Italian luxury titan Prada is attempting a stunning, high-priced pivot. The brand has announced a limited-edition line of “Made in India” Kolhapuri sandals, priced at $939 a pair, in a move critics see as an attempt to monetize the very heritage it was accused of stealing.
The new deal, signed at the Italy-India Business Forum, commits Prada to producing just 2,000 pairs of the sandals in the Indian states of Maharashtra and Karnataka, in partnership with state-backed entities. The collection, dubbed ‘Prada Made in India – Inspired by Kolhapuri Chappals,’ will launch in February 2026 in 40 stores worldwide, marking a dramatic reversal from the controversy that erupted this summer.
In June, Prada showcased sandals with an open-toe braided pattern that were virtually identical to traditional Kolhapuri sandals, which date back to the 12th century. The brand initially described them only as “leather footwear,” failing to credit their Indian origins and igniting fierce backlash from artisans and the public.
Faced with accusations of exploitation, Prada later acknowledged the design’s roots and entered talks with Indian officials. “We’ll mix the original manufacturer’s standard capabilities with our manufacturing techniques,” said Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada’s head of CSR, framing the new venture as a collaboration.
The agreement, signed for five years, is packaged as a boon for local craftspeople. Maharashtra’s Social Justice Minister, Sanjay Shirsat, said selected artisans will receive special training from Prada, and about 200 will be sent to Italy for three-year apprenticeships, with financial aid from the state government.
However, the stratospheric price point—$939, or roughly 84,000 rupees, for a single pair—has become the flashpoint. Traditional Kolhapuri sandals are celebrated for their sturdy, affordable craftsmanship suited to India’s climate, often selling for a fraction of that cost. Critics argue Prada’s move transforms a communal cultural artifact into an exclusive luxury commodity, doing little to address the core grievance of appropriation.
“This isn’t collaboration; it’s colonization by credit card,” said one industry critic. “They took the design, got caught, and are now selling it back to the world at a 10,000% markup, calling it benevolence.”
Why It Matters
While some officials hail the deal as a prestigious global platform for Indian craftsmanship, many Kolhapur artisans remain conflicted. Following the initial controversy, many expressed deep sadness that their centuries-old design was taken without credit or context.
The question now is whether Prada’s “Made in India” stamp and high-profile training programs will be enough to repair its reputation or if the $939 sandal will stand as a permanent symbol of luxury’s fraught relationship with global heritage—a very expensive apology that doubles as a product launch.
