When the news dropped that Demna was moving from Balenciaga to Gucci, I expected his usual chaos: shredded hemlines, blown-out proportions, a Gucci logo slapped on as an afterthought, aka Demna‑by‑numbers.
How very wrong I was.
The Resurrection of Tom Ford Energy
Demna called it Primavera. But if you’re familiar with Tom Ford’s Gucci, you’d have recognised it immediately. After years of the brand giving off polite library energy, Demna made it interesting again.
The collection’s opening was all body. It featured skin-tight white dresses, muscle tees that clung like second skin, and, of all things, fur. If you’ve been consistently doing Pilates, now’s the time to let Gucci help you show off.
The Sciura, The Maranza, and Kate Moss
Kate Moss closing the show was Demna’s most brilliant move.
I wasn’t expecting it in the least, and maybe that’s why it landed so hard. She walked out in a sequined gown that plunged so low in the back you could see a branded Gucci G‑string. If that’s not a direct line to 1997 Tom Ford, nothing is.
But what really got me was the casting around her, and (more importantly) who each look was designed for. Yes, there were the usuals: Karlie, EmRata, Gabbrielle. But there were also faces you wouldn’t expect, wearing clothes that felt made for them, not just for a runway. The Milanese sciura in her fur stole. The maranza in his slouchy, sagging pants. The digital kids scrolling mid-walk. Demna designed each look like he knew exactly who lived there.
Why This Collection Has Lagos Written All Over It
In Nigeria, we don’t really do quiet luxury. We like our fashion loud, sexy, and intentional. This collection gives us exactly that: Rich Auntie meets International Baddie.
The updated Bamboo 1947 is already the It Bag of 2026. And that’s the point. This collection offers clothes you actually want to be seen in, not just to look expensive in a quiet way.
In Summary
Demna just proved that Gucci is at its best when it’s a little bit senseless, a little bit dramatic, and a lot bit sexy. The weird Demna might be on hiatus. But the one who sent Kate Moss down the runway in a backless gown and a visible G‑string? He’s here. And he just made Gucci the coolest brand in Milan again.
